Sticks and Stones

…may break my bones but…

Everyone’s heard it so many times, I don’t even have to finish. It’s ranked right up there with such cult classics as, ‘Liar liar pants-on-fire,’ and, ‘I’m rubber, you’re glue…’ blah blah blah.

The Power of Words
The Power of Words

The timeless phrase parents everywhere have taught their kids about name-calling has become ingrained in our cultural identity – almost as much as Star Wars – over the past century. But as I live in Korea and take the opportunity to study another language, the question that begs to be asked is: Can words hurt?

I posit, no. Words cannot hurt. Not on their own anyway. They require something additional to really sting but I didn’t realize it until living halfway around the world.

Native English speakers take the depth of our language for granted. We honestly don’t think about it. Why would we? It’s second nature. The primary language in which we’re brought up is usually the only way communicate. And communication itself – the simple act of conveying a message to another person – is often taken for granted.

English is the most poetic language every created. Let me explain what I mean. By poetic, I’m talking about the sheer number of words that exist in English; far more than any other language and probably more than if you were to combine some. There are more adjectives, adverbs, and words that clarify degree in English than in any other spoken tongue… in history. Seriously. In history.

Nuff Said
Nuff Said

Are you surprised? English is, after all, the language of Shakespeare, Hemingway, Dickens, and even Frank Capra. Over the past few hundred years it has spread across the globe and become the predominate form of human communication. While some of us, George Orwell comes to mind, may consider these extra words overkill, I certainly disagree. We need all the words we can get – the more the merrier! But words alone mean nothing. There’s a missing piece to this equation.

In every other language, all those with far fewer words than English, people still manage to effectively communicate their message whether they’re the transmitter or the receiver. How is this possible when they don’t know the difference between all the different synonyms that can be used to mean something is good or great? Just to give you an idea, there are over 5,000.  Do you know how many there are in Korean? I’ll give you three guesses but I’ll bet you won’t need them. There’s one.

What I’m talking about is context and in foreign language acquisition, context is everything. I teach my kids that context refers to the clues found within the sentence or paragraph of a reading passage to help them ascertain the meaning of an unknown vocabulary word. But that is only the most basic of definitions. Context gives words weight, turning simple ideas complex.

While English has over 5,000 words that basically mean ‘good’, the Korean word for good is 좋은 and means everything from ‘nice’ to ‘tenacious’. How the receiver of the message knows which definition to use is completely reliant on the rest of the sentence construction. Meaning can be implied through association of other words or, in the instance of speech, through intonation, stresses, and accents.

Someone should steal this guy's red hat.
Someone should steal this guy’s red hat.

Last week I taught my kids that you can create implied meaning in a single sentence without altering a single word. All they had to do was change the way they spoke the sentence; put the tonal stress in a different place each time.

I didn’t say you stole my red hat.

There are eight different (and subtle) meanings to this phrase that you can alter simply by moving the accent. Try it. Emphasize the word ‘say‘ in one reading and then emphasize ‘stole‘ in the next.

Do you hear it? Completely different implied meanings. So while this sentence means virtually nothing on it’s own, within a specific context the meaning morphs.

The same can be true of words themselves. A single word may not be hurtful on its own but take that word and toss it into a hurtful remark directed at someone. It carries an entirely new power. Tarantino was lambasted for his use of the ‘N word’ in his most recent film Django Unchained. He defended himself saying he wrote period authentic dialog which was exactly how people spoke back then. Contemporary audiences needed to leave their present day, cultural bias at the door before viewing the picture to really enjoy it.

One Sheet
One Sheet

The ‘N word’ on it’s own is an interesting example. The definition is merely, ‘one who doesn’t understand or know something.’ However, that meaning is changed drastically depending on the message’s sender and receiver. Hip hop artists, for example, use it all the time. And for some reason that’s completely acceptable. Yet if I were to say it (which you can read that I haven’t), I would either be ridiculed, beaten up, cursed at, or given some other outrageous reaction. But why?

Some people have tried to take back that word and others like it. If you hear women referring to each other as ‘bitch’ or ‘slut’ or ‘whore’, that is an attempt to overuse it to the point of saturation, so it doesn’t hurt when some moronic frat boy calls her that name.

But they’re just words. Aren’t they? Remove the context and they lose their power.

I move that words themselves don’t hurt but the surrounding context is what becomes painful. So the age old mantra had credence: sticks and stones may break my bones but names will never hurt me. The names won’t hurt you. The sender of the names will, especially if you happen to care about that person or they care about you. The words may not break your bones, but they’ll probably break something.

Until Next Time…

-Justin

PS – Apologies if this philosophical grammar topic was a bit too sterile for some of you. I am a writer and an English teacher after all… something like this was bound to come up sooner or later. All my posts can’t be about the horrors of Cambodian genocide… 😛

The Divine Cambodia: Hell

A few hundred kilometers south of Angkor is the current capital city of the Kingdom of Cambodia, Phnom Penh. Two nearby sites (one within the city) are remembered for some of the most horrific atrocities to ever befall a society. In my last post, I focused on the splendor and magnificence of the Khmer culture dating back to the 9th century. This week, we don’t have to travel that far back in time – we’re only going to 1975.

Pol Pot
Pol Pot

The Khmer Rouge, or Red Khmers, is the name of the communist party that formed in 1968 and took control of the country in 1975 after a brutal civil war related to the armed conflict in neighboring Vietnam. Let by Pol Pot, the Khmer Rouge was in power until they fled in 1979, forced out of the country by the People’s Republic of Cambodia. But the damage done in four brief years was irreversible.

The Khmer Rouge initiated a policy of social engineering which directly contributed to mass genocide of millions of innocent Cambodians. Pol Pot insisted the people become self-sufficient, however, his methods for achieving said self-sufficiency were arbitrary, hypocritical, and flat out criminal.

The first thing the Khmer Rouge wanted to accomplish was the creation of a completely agrarian society. To accomplish this, they forced all the citizens from the cities (Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Kratie, and others) into the fields of the rural countryside. Regardless of social status or level of education, farm work was the best most of these people would ever see as the situation escalated quickly and to dire consequences.

The Khmer Rouge tried to control what people wore, ate, spoke, how they acted, and in many ways even tried to influence what people thought. Any potential threats to Pol Pot’s party (those suspected of being traitors) – intellectuals, politicians, minorities, and even just people who wore glasses – were detained, tortured, and put to death. The rulers didn’t want anyone alive who sympathized or rubbed elbows with any ‘free-market’ economies and many of those countries themselves were added to the Khmer Rouge black list.

Pol Pot separated the population into two distinct groups: New People (educated city-dwellers) and Old People (rural farm workers). The Khmer Rouge’s motto toward the New People was, “To keep you is no benefit. To destroy you is no loss.” It’s hard to imagine where this philosophy originated as many developing nations rely on the educated population to hold everyone else up. Pol Pot was a sociopath; a paranoid megalomaniac who believed that any and everyone could potentially challenge his reign.

Over 2 million Cambodians (and a small handful of foreigners) were murdered at the hands of the Khmer Rouge – a number equal to 25% of the total population. It was a massacre of epic proportions. Let’s put it into perspective…

There are just over 300 million people living in the United States. Imagine (if you can) that 80 million people suddenly disappeared from within America. 80 million is a difficult number to wrap your head around so if we add up the total population of the top ten largest markets in the country (New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Houston, Philadelphia, Phoenix, San Antonio, Dallas, San Diego, and San Jose), the number of people is only equal to about 30 million – less than 10% of the total American populace.

If you were suspected of treason by the Khmer Rouge, they didn’t just kill you… they killed your entire family so that your children and your children’s children didn’t enact revenge for your death. These crimes against humanity occurred all over Cambodia as the military tortured their own citizens before dumping the bodies into mass graves. Two sites have immortalized this dark time in history: Tuol Sleng (or S21) and Choeung Ek (or The Killing Fields).

Monuments in S21
Monuments in S21

Tuol Sleng

Tuol Svay Prey High School, located in the center of Phnom Penh, was converted into a security prison. It quickly became the largest center of torture in the country; we’re well aware of this because of the meticulous records kept by the Khmer Rouge. Each prisoner was photographed (sometimes before and after being tortured) and rolls of names were recorded.

During the peak of ‘revolution’, an average of 100 victims a day were taken at S21. By the time the Khmer Rouge were forced out in 79, there were only seven remaining prisoners living in the old high school. These lucky few had used their skills in photography and other arts to maintain value to their captors. The regime was cannibalistic as outgoing executioners were killed by their replacements.

Starvation and torture made Tuol Sleng the end of the line for some Cambodians. But for the majority of others, it was just another rest stop on the way to the killing fields. The closest of these fields to Phnom Penh is only 15 kilometers away.

A Mass Grave filled with the Women and Children
A Mass Grave filled with the Women and Children

Choeung Ek

While the total number of deaths at the hands of the Khmer Rouge were in the millions, the devastation at Choeung Ek was limited to only 17,000. Since that time, however, these deaths have become symbolically immortalized so that none will forget. Many other killing field locations cannot be accessed either due to excessive land mines or because they were simply forgotten, lost in the jungles. The stories that Cheoung Ek tells are not for the faint of heart.

The men, women, children, and infants fated to any of the killing fields weren’t considered human, certainly not Cambodian. Oftentimes, they were murdered without the use of bullets – to save ammunition. Thousands were bound and blindfolded before being beaten or bludgeoned to death. Once an orchard (nearby to an ancient Chinese cemetery), Choeung Ek is now home to 129 mass graves, only 86 of which have been excavated. The grounds are littered with fragments of human bones, teeth, and bits of cloth; some of which can be identified as belonging to very young children.

The executioners were resourceful, utilizing their environment to aid them in their machine of death. Razor sharp palm tree branches were used to slit throats. The nearby reservoir was used to drown children and the elderly. But quite possibly the worst story imaginable is that of the Killing Tree. The Khmer Rouge would hold infants by their ankles and swing, like a baseball bat, viciously bashing their heads against the trunk. The babies’ mothers were forced to watch before being raped and murdered themselves. Now, the tree is covered with brightly colored bracelets – mementos left by tourists and families in memory of the lives lost. Needless to say, this wasn’t the easiest place to visit.

The Bands are Placed in Honor of the Babies
The Bands are Placed in Honor of the Babies

If Cambodia was heaven prior to the 15th century, then it became hell in the 1970s under the rule of the Khmer Rouge. Pol Pot’s body count wasn’t as high as the Fuhrer’s but the brutality is equal. In fact, I find it hard to fathom how this event could’ve taken place at all, let alone a mere 30 years after the Holocaust.

I can only hope and pray that humanity finally learns the lessons that the Khmer Rouge and the Nazis teach us.

 

Until Next Time…

-Justin

The Divine Cambodia: Heaven

Welcome to Cambodia
Welcome to Cambodia

During a century in which the barbaric Viking tribes were expanding across and conquering Europe, many Asian cultures had evolved into a much more civil society. The Chinese invented gunpowder and the smaller and lesser known Khmer people of Southeast Asia designed and constructed the largest city in the world: Angkor.

Angkor
Angkor

Angkor is the earthly representation of the heavenly Mt Meru, essentially the Mt Olympus of the Hindu religion, where the pantheon of gods lived. The city is the perfect fusion of faith and craftsmanship. The Khmer Empire (pronounced ‘K-mare’) spans more than 600 years between the 9th and 15th centuries. And today, visitors from all over the world can witness the majesty of their civilization in the many temples and ruins of this once great people.

The word Angkor itself, derived from the Sanskrit language of India, means ‘Holy City’. Before the Khmer independence was declared by King Jayavarman II, most of the region was under the control of Java – an force from the islands of Indonesia to the south. But the king established Angkor at the northern tip of Tonle Sap Lake for it’s strategic advantages (it was an area very well fortified by waterways, jungles, and mountains – very hard to attack).

However, after a few hundred years, the capital of the Kampuchians (another word for Cambodians) fell into decline and was relocated south to its present day location of Phnom Penh after being attacked and looted by the Ayutthaya Kingdom – aka Siam. The Siamese population had been growing and expanding, threatening the sovereignty of the Khmer Empire and the splendor of Angkor.

The city was lost for hundreds of years, victim to the perils of the jungle, only to be rediscovered by French explorers and archaeologists, particularly Henri Mouhot, in the late 19th century. Since then, the ruins and temples have been open for hundreds of thousands of tourists to discover the ancient Khmer magic for themselves.

3 Visible (of 5) Pillars of Angkor Wat
3 Visible (of 5) Pillars of Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

The wonder of Angkor Wat is matched a few places across the entire surface of the globe; only sites like Macchu Picchu in South America or Petra in the Middle East can compare. As mentioned earlier, the name translates to, “Heaven on Earth,” and it is the only temple within the entire Angkor complex continuously operated while the others, one by one, have fallen into ruin.

Most ancient temples, across cultures and continents (from Egypt to Tokyo) are oriented east, toward the rising sun. Not so with Angkor Wat which is oriented to the west, the direction typically associated with death. This has led many scholars to believe the temple’s original purpose was that of a kingly tomb.

Angkor Wat is surrounded by a 190 meter wide moat, a giant rectangle over a kilometer in each direction that, throughout history, protected the people from unwanted visitors. According to the inscriptions (also known as Bas-Reliefs), the construction took over 300,000 workers and over 6,000 elephants and was never officially completed. That would’ve been a lot of Porta-Potties.

The Faces of Bayon
The Faces of Bayon

Angkor Thom & Bayon Temple

Angkor Thom is significantly larger than Ankor Wat at over 10 square kilometers. At the height of the Khmer Empire, Angkor Thom may have supported a population upwards of one million. One of the most interesting things about Angkor is the meshing of religious influences of the region. There are three major motifs: Hindu (from the west), Buddhist (from the north), and the Lingam (phallus worship of the indigenous people in that region).

Along the many walls, one will find symbolic depictions of spiritual events carved into the stone. Many have names like ‘Churning of the Ocean of Milk’, ‘Krishna and the Demon-king’, and ‘Heaven and Hell’. But without a doubt the most impressive, and haunting, structure within the gates of Thom is the temple of Bayon.

When I approached Bayon, I had a feeling someone was watching me…

The 54 gothic-style towers are decorated by over 200 eerily smiling faces that glare down from every angle. I was eerily reminded of the Mona Lisa; the expressions on the faces could be happy but it’s more than that. The mysterious faces, which bear a resemblance to the king who constructing them, felt to me like they are all hiding something, something sinister or ulterior (maybe a secret buried treasure)! No matter what, don’t trust the faces of Bayon.

The Trees are an Important Part of the Ruins
The Trees are an Important Part of the Ruins

Ta Prohm

This spot was my favorite in all of Cambodia and is the ‘most atmospheric ruins‘ according to Lonely Planet. I whole-heartily agree and while I was trekking through the darkened tunnels and over the towering piles of rubble, John Williams’ Indiana Jones score blasted in my headphones, adding a soundtrack to that atmosphere (are any of you really surprised?).

Ta Prohm has literally been swallowed by the jungle and between the tangles of tree roots and angles the sunlight bends through the ruins, it feels other-worldly. Truly the construction of all these temples is a testament to the genius of the Khmer kings of old. The many courtyards, towers, and corridors of Ta Prohm were built in 1186 to be used as a monastery for the king. During its use, almost 80,000 people were required to maintain the temple grounds including over 600 dancers and concubines.

The most iconic spot in all of Angkor is the Crocodile Tree, located at the entrance to the central enclosure. This is the spot where Lara Croft (played by Angelina Jolie in Tomb Raider) picked a flower before plummeting deep into the catacombs of the temple. The trees all around Ta Prohm are called Thitpok. There are other species as well (the tree in the photo above is nicknamed the “spider tree”) but these are the most prominent.

People Used to be Allowed to Climb This
People Used to be Allowed to Climb This

I did a great deal of exploration in and around Ta Prohm, Angkor Thom, and Angkor Wat on Christmas Day. However, I was instructed by my guide to stay within the walls and on the designated paths for tourists. Why? The Khmer Rouge civil war from the 1970s left thousands of land mines scattered throughout the jungle, remnants of the horrors that took place in this beautiful country. Good thing I didn’t have to search for a private spot to relieve myself. I might have returned home with one or two less appendages!

While Angkor has strove to be heavenly, there is another side of the proverbial coin: the darker side of Cambodia. A descent into Hell equally terrifying and fascinating at the same time.

Until Next Time…

-Justin

(If you’d like to see more photos of Angkor, please click here).