Your Mileage May Vary: Part I

As the end of my year in Korea quickly approaches, I thought I’d take some time to reflect and look back over the entire year…

(DISCLAIMER: I have had an amazing time in Korea, even if my time wasn’t perfect or even close to the experiences of others. Don’t be alarmed by the negative aspects as I’m only trying to report objectively and honestly. My goal is to paint a complete picture of my time abroad for my friends and family at home. In no way is this ended to be racist or overly critical; these are merely observations based on only my personal experiences. I’ve already spoken at great length about the positives…. this is just the other side of the equation. Rest assured, the good far outweighs the bad.)

PART I

Teaching English as a Second Language overseas is quite a unique experience with many facets. Minuscule aspects of daily life, second nature to most people, become major issues for ex-pats including but not limited to: acclimating to your host culture, changes in sleep/work schedule, daily and weekly routines, social involvement with new friends and romantically, finding your way in a new environment, getting along with your coworkers and students, the way the school is managed, and your ability – or inability – to communicate.

We are the sum of the choices we make. I made a conscious decision to live in Daegu (pop. 3 million people) as opposed to Seoul (pop. 20 million people). I had my reasons. And I will stand by them; however, other ex-pats who chose Seoul or Tokyo over smaller towns and villages, experienced a completely different lifestyle. Which is better? That’s not for me to say. My point is everyone’s stories will differ greatly. Some teachers have day jobs while others teach in the evenings; the schedule also has a great deal of impact on each ex-pat’s experience.

These are only some of my own personal observations (to be added to a year’s worth as chronicled in this blog).

First and foremost, Korea is a very confused nation. Having been sandwiched between two superpowers over the past five thousand years has left them void of a cultural identity. Because of this, Koreans gravitate toward Western culture to plug the holes. Technology, arts and entertainment, sports, fashion, food, transportation, and other aspects of life in a Korean city and borrowed (or stolen) directly from America.

Korea: Where the Smart Phone is King…

The worst of these is the image-based, superficial society. South Korea has the international record for most cosmetic surgeries per capita (40% of women under 50 go under the knife). They care so much about the way their faces look and which clothes they buy, they spend hours staring at themselves in their smart phones adjusting and readjusting their hair and makeup. I’ve literally witnessed a half-dozen teenager or twenty-something Koreans sitting around a table – none of them speaking to each other, but all are either texting other people or staring at the own image in their smart phone screens (older Koreans don’t fall prey to this behavior and I’m concerned about similar symptoms present in the American youth).

Skinny Jeans anyone?

Additionally, the Korean men have to be the most socially awkward demographic I’ve ever encountered. Most in their 20s, dress like Brooklyn hipsters (and are super feminine [not just the boy bands] – probably the reason when it comes to dating, overtly masculine Western men have a more difficult time than our slimmer counterparts), and if that weren’t bad enough, they’re clumsy, tripping and falling over themselves. They also regularly have goofy expression plastered across their faces and when they interact with each other, not just Westerners, they seem to be self-conscious to the point that nervous ticks and twitches become abundant. They drink a lot and cannot hold their liquor. I’ve seen older Koreans stumbling home from happy hour piss-drunk and unable to walk straight.

Moreover, the cities themselves are filthy. Trash is everywhere and nobody bothers to clean the alleys. There are no trash cans. People litter constantly and the only way anything gets recycled is when old ladies sort and collect the cardboard, paper, glass, and plastic from the huge piles of trash dotting the curbs. They must do a great job though, since 49% of all trash ends up recycled.

Too Many Streets Look Like This

Accompanying the trash are the smells; most places in cities (the countryside is completely different and smells lovely) stink in some combination of rotten fish/seafood, sewage/garbage, and cat shit. I haven’t been able to figure out why Koreans don’t seem to mind but most ex-pats who’ve lived in Korea longer than a couple days, comment that the stench is the worst part of their experience – I wholeheartedly agree.

One of the misnomers of Asians in general is that they are smarter and have a stronger work ethic than their Western counterparts. Nothing could be farther from the truth. Asians, if they’re better at math, are only so at earlier ages. This has nothing to do with their level of intelligence, but rather has much more to do with their language development.

Kids Will Be Kids

The counting system in Asian cultures is much simpler for toddlers and elementary school students to pick up and master. They count each single digit in each placeholder. So instead of saying: thirty-seven…. Asians say three-ten-seven… Much more logical for young kids to understand. If America changed their language to count in the same way Koreans do, elementary math scores would increase across North America.

I’ve found that my kids (middle school age) are very similar to American students in most respects. They don’t want to study, they don’t want to work, they don’t want to pay attention in class, and in general care more about what they’re doing on their smart phone screens than what I’m doing on the dry-erase board.

Kids will be kids, after all however, don’t be misled: Asians are not more intelligent (or harder working) than Americans. They do have more excuses than Americans though, since they find themselves under immense pressure from parents, teachers, peers, and society to succeed. While their Western counterparts engage in extracurricular activities like sports teams, debate clubs, and drama productions, kids in Korea sit in classrooms from 8:00am until 10:00pm more often than not (In a previous article, I mentioned the skyrocketing suicide rate among teens – this is mostly due to test scores and schoolwork). Overall, like most things in life, I found the kids in Korea to fit into a bell-shaped curve.

To Be Continued…

-Justin

The Festival Circuit – Part III: The Spring Festivals

The third episode has become the final episode. The original idea presented four separate articles however, there is a curious lack of festivals between December and March. So the spring follows the autumn and there will be no winter festival posting. Please enjoy the final chapter in this blogging trilogy.

Move Over Moses…

• Jindo Miracle Sea Festival – Once a year in Jindo, the seas mysteriously part and visitors can walk through the sea from the mainland to a nearby island. This phenomenon is caused due to the difference in high tides and low tides, which creates a 2.8-kilometer-long road measuring 40 to 60 meters in width. The Jindo Miracle Sea Festival takes place at the same time as this phenomenon allowing people to ‘walk’ on water. The spectacular sight of the waves parting is widely known and many people travel to Korea from all over the world just to witness this amazing event. It’s PACKED though…

… I Can Fly Twice as High…

• Hampyeong Butterfly Festival – The Hampyeong Butterfly Festival offers visitors the opportunity to get a closer look at ecology, in particular the region’s butterflies. During the festival period, the whole town of Hampyeong is a “veritable butterfly town,” covered with butterfly-themed lights and decorations. A medley of butterfly-themed events and programs shed some lights on one of nature’s most beautiful and delicate creatures, all while providing fun for the whole family. In addition to numerous exhibition halls featuring butterflies, insects, and water plants, there is even a “hands-on” area where visitors can see and touch a variety of animals and plants! The festival is a great opportunity for children to learn about nature in a fun, interactive environment.

No Caption Necessary

• Chuncheon International Mime Festival – The Chuncheon International Mime Festival presents a wide array of performances by hundreds of performing arts teams from Korea and abroad. Performances feature diverse genres include mime, music, dance, installation art, and short films. Not the festival of choice if you’re blind (the mimes don’t use sound effects)…

Free Willy!

• Ulsan Whale Festival – As one of Ulsan’s most important festivals, the ‘Ulsan Whale Festival’ is operated mainly in the form of Ulsan’s local folk programs and hands-on programs. The traditional Ulsan method of whale fishing is recreated off the coast of Ulsan. This recreation is based on historical evidence, with a large number of people dressed in traditional outfits who perform ‘Madangnori‘ that demonstrates the art of whale fishing. This is a great opportunity to observe traditional whale fishing. In addition, there are a wide range of programs to enjoy, such as Whale Singing Competition for amateur singers, water multimedia show and whale boat race contest. Other hands-on programs include whale market, whale watching trip and more.

Dam Yangees!

• Damyang Bamboo Festival – Located within a forest of 2.4 kilometers of bamboo, this festival is full of activities celebrating the beauty and function of the bamboo plant. More active visitors can test their skills during some of the festival’s scheduled river sports, such as ‘Log Rafting’ and ‘Water Bicycling’. After working up an appetite, visitors can please their palate with some of Damyang’s famous cuisines and other world foods featured at the Cultural Experience Center. This one reminded me of the bamboo forest I witnessed in Kyoto – though nowhere near as expansive.

This Festival is Actually Local

• Daegu Yangyeongsi Herb Medicine Festival – A tradition dating back 350 years, the Daegu Yangnyeongsi (herb medicine market) was an international market where herbal medicines from China, Russia, Europe, and other regions were sold. The herb medicine festival displays medicinal herbs found in Korea’s mountains and offers visitors an opportunity to experience a wide range of relaxing and curative traditional medicinal procedures. The Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Medicine Festival will be a fascinating event for international visitors who are interested in Korea’s medicinal herbs and the medical sciences and traditions of Asia.

I Wish I Shot This

• Lotus Lantern Festival (Buddha’s Birthday) – Unlike every other festival mentioned thus far, the celebration’s of Buddha’s birthday occur all over the peninsula in both Korea’s, in every town, village, and city. Obviously, the larger the city, the larger the festival and consequently, Seoul and Busan boast the biggest. However, if anyone’s interested in celebrating the birthday of Buddha, lanterns, dances, food and drink, can be experienced in just about any place you’d look.

Until Next Time…

-Justin

That’s All Folk!

folk  (adjective \fok\) –

1. originating or traditional with the common people of a country or region and typically reflecting their lifestyle

2. of or relating to the common people or to the study of the common people 

This week has held without a doubt the most traditional Korean experiences of my visit all thanks to Jen who insisted on diving headfirst into Asian life and become the adopted child of the culture. She dragged me along, kicking and screaming (after almost 11 months, I’m ready for baseball, hot dogs, and flipping the bird to passing drivers who cut me off down the highway).

Hahoe Village

Sunday began our journey to the town of Andong, located north (about an hour) from Daegu. Just outside the main town is the tiny, traditional Korean folk village called Hahoe. The village population of 125 people live in modest and very rural accommodations and while they’ve adapted to certain modern day conveniences (air conditioning, HD satellite television, and automobiles), they live much like their ancestors did hundreds of years ago (working in fields, straw thatched roofs, and far from the hustle and bustle of Korean metropolises).

If you plan to visit Korea or any Asian countries, I highly recommend paying a short visit to any traditional folk villages as they provide a rare glimpse into the past, culture, and traditions of this very honorable and respectful people. Hahoe is no different. One thing I’d be remiss to mention however, is that if you’re looking at the map the visitors desk hands out, don’t try to walk the entire thing as it’s NOT DRAWN TO SCALE!!! Repeat… the map is NOT drawn to scale!

A View into the Past

Between 10am and 3pm, we probably walked and hiked between six and eight kilometers – up a mountain and then around it the long way, traipsing down the highways in the May afternoon heat. Needless to say, sunburn was a given. Also, Koreans aren’t familiar with the American sign of sticking your thumb out for a ride. Apparently, “Please For the Love of God and All Things Holy, Pick Us Up and Give Us A Ride!!!” doesn’t translate.

The village was founded by the Pungsan Ryu family and many, if not all, of the current residents are members of the same family. Made famous worldwide by Queen Elizabeth’s visit in 1999 (she asked to be taken to the ‘most Korean’ place in the country), the quaint town is typically very serene and void of the awful smells that engulf most Korean cities. It’s a very relaxing and stress free place to visit (if you avoid the hiking).

Personally, I couldn’t imagine living in a tourist attraction. Every time the residents of Hahoe left their homes, they were subjected to visitors who poked, prodded, and photographed the homes, cars, roads, trees, and people themselves. I was reminded of Celebration, Florida – the town owned by Disney. I did my best to keep out of their private property, but it was difficult since their homes were actually part of the attraction.

Hahoe Masks

You may remember one of my other articles that mentioned the annual maskdance festival. Andong and Hahoe are where this celebration takes place. The centerpiece of the festival is the hahoe mask – which the town was named after. Since the Goryeo Dynasty (circa 950 AD), the people in this region have used the masks in dances and dramas. Additional uses for the three major Korean masks (the other two are called sandae and talchum) include wars, burials, exorcisms, and in other arts.

One of the most interesting things about Hahoe is the 600 year old zelkova tree, called Samsindang, in the center of the village said to house the ancient spirit of the goddess Samsin who’s the goddess of birth and fertility. Fertility is a nice segue into the next section of our traditional folk experiences (I teach my students how to segue in both their speaking and their writing).

600 Year Old Samsindang Tree

A few days later, we hunted through Daegu for a special restaurant. Well, the restaurant wasn’t anything special as it was filled with the standard gawking old men who act like they’ve never seen a white person before. However, what they served was quite unique. Jen, who’s a vegetarian 364 days out of the year, and I ate a stew made from a special type of meat.

Gaejangguk (or Boshintang, a name that translates to ‘invigorating’) is a soup filled with green leafy vegetables, onions, spicy peppers, rice, and… dog meat. Yes. I ate dog. And honestly, it was just okay; nothing special. Because of the way it’s cooked in the broth, the meat is very tender and stringy – like shredded chicken or pulled pork. It soaked in the flavors of the vegetables and if nobody told me I was eating dog, I’d have never known the difference.

Now, I know what you’re thinking… Lassie! Scooby! Benji! Snoopy! Marmaduke! No! Seriously though, folks, the dogs are a special breed raised for consumption just like any old cow, pig, or chicken. I didn’t eat any little girl’s puppy. Promise! At least I hope not…

Korean Dog Meat Stew

Koreans in general are a superstitious people (they think falling asleep with a fan on will bring death) and one of their superstitions is that eating dog meat will increase your virility and give you more energy. I doubt that’s true, but eating soup on a hot day will help regulate your body temperature and cool you down (regardless of what meat is in it).

Asian and African cultures have been eating dog meat as far back as antiquity. A wall painting unearthed in a cave in the Hwagghae province depicts the ancient people eating dogs. Recently, the practice of eating dog meat has come under scrutiny and controversy. A growing number of Koreans has vocally opposed the horrific practices associated with the way the animals are raised and slaughtered.

A Rare Portrait of the Ex-Pat as a Not-So Young Man

Most people under the age of 30 would never consider eating dog even if they had tried it once or twice in the past. There is a developing perspective in Korea that dogs are pets and not food, hence a decrease in the food’s popularity. Many people feel it should continue to be available as a personal choice, not to be forced on anyone but maintained as part of their history and heritage. Truth be told, it’s not worth the debate. Dog doesn’t taste good enough to argue over. I’d have just as eagerly eaten beef, pork, or chicken soup.

Until Next Time…

-Justin

Clouds of Mystery Pouring

This past weekend, my friend Jen and I visited the southernmost province of Korea. It’s an island called Jeju and the Koreans boast about it’s beauty. They say the island is the Korean ‘Hawaii’. They’re correct only in that both islands share certain similarities: palm trees, a central (dormant) volcano, and water surrounding on all sides. I wouldn’t go so far as to call Jeju-Do (do is the Korean word for island) ‘Hawaii’ although the locale manages to have charms of its own.

A Panoramic View from a Volcano

You may be wondering about the title of this article. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate with our trip and the skies either rained or remained gray and overcast 95% of the trip. In spite of the massive amounts of precipitation, leading to saturated socks, difficult photography, and swamp ass, we managed to enjoy the sites and have a great time.

Jusangeolli Cliffs

We first stopped at an area on the southern coast of the island called Jungmun featuring miles of scenic coastlines and hiking through mountainous forest trails to ancient temples and majestic waterfalls. Similar to the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, Jusangjeolli Cliffs runs east to west along the south side of Jeju-Do and were formed in the violent, volcanic eruptions that created the island. As the lava cooled, the rocks fracturing during a process called contraction, creating the appearance of biscuits or ‘ball and socket’ joints across the surface.

After admiring the waves crashing against the jagged cliffs, we made our way inland along the rivers and deep into the subtropical forests to find the valley of the seven nymphs, or seonim. Legend states the nymphs (Pleiades, of Greek mythology) descended from the heavens to bathe in the pools near the waterfalls, so we knew we were heading in the right direction.

The Top Tier Falls

Continuing past Seonim Bridge, we came upon Cheonjeyeon Falls – a spectacular three tiered waterfall. However, since the water level remained lower than average spanning the past few months, the falls, pools, and even the coastal waters all over the island, appeared much less impressive. I could only imagine what they must look like after torrential downpours and flooding.

Following the nature trek of the morning, our saturated afternoon led us to Yakcheonsa Temple, a massive structure in both size and awe. The ground stretched out for miles and included a botanical garden while the building itself, flanked on both sides by drum and bell towers, stood three stories tall and was one of the largest temples I’ve seen in Asia during my travels.

A Karmic Monument

Contrary to the other temples I’ve seen in Korea, Japan, and Cambodia, Yakcheonsa remains in use – Buddhist services are held weekly and the monks live on the compound in the nearby ‘rectory’ (for lack of a better word) similar to Catholic priests in Europe and the Americas.

The second day took us to the far east side of the island to a place called Seongsan Ilchulbong, or Sunrise Peak – a crater formed from a secondary volcano – and a smaller island off the coast of Jeju called U-Do (the first picture is a view from the top of the peak).

Sunrise Peak from U-Do

The name U-Do is a reference to the udders of a cow and the locals stand by the opinion that the island is shaped like an upside-down bovine (we didn’t see it). The uniqueness of the island isn’t in the name. U-Do has three beaches of varying colors – white, black, and red – as well as a series of lava tube caves (underwater in some cases) and some great scenery including sunrise peak across the channel and a traditional Korean village.

For a small fee, visitors can rent either a scooter or an ATV for a few hours to speed around (though not too fast) the island. Taking advantage of the fun, we picked out an ATV and hit the gas. Our first stop was the white sand beach made of fossilized coral as opposed to sand (difficult to walk on). Korean teens skipped the larger pieces across the water, a game to see who could get their coral to skip the most times and the farthest out into the sea.

U-Do’s Black Sand Beach

Next we headed up the mountain toward the lighthouse point and down around the other side where we relaxed near the lava caves on the black sand beach. We would’ve liked to have had warmer and sunnier weather to really take advantage of being on the beach, but both days were far too overcast and chilly to don our bathing suits. Alas, watching the boats across the water and the tourists discovering the black sand for the first time became entertainment enough.

Overall, the island is stunning even with the gray skies. Many people seemed to have the opinion that the overcast weather meant for a cooler, and more enjoyable, experience viewing the scenery. We had an great time, but some sun would’ve added in my opinion. If you aren’t already in Korea, don’t go out of your way to get to Jeju though (most of the tourism comes from China). It’s a nice stop however, there are better places to see. If you’re short on time and money Jeju is, as my students say, just so-so.

Until Next Time…

-Justin