…Another Brick in the Wall: Part IV

The rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain.

That famous song and scene from My Fair Lady depicts Audrey Hepburn learning to pronounce the long A vowel sound in English. I wish my students displayed such a love for education as she does. Alas, they do not.

The most difficult aspect of my job this year, teaching in an Opus Dei high school in Pamplona is a single question: What kind of adults does a school system create? Or to put it another way, how does the school system affect the culture of a nation and its people?

40 years of a fascist government under Francisco Franco has dictated (no pun intended) the direction that the culture has shifted. You’re probably scratching your head and wondering how one has anything to do with the other. Well, let me connect the dots for you.

They are some of the Friendliest People on the Planet
They are some of the Friendliest People on the Planet

The first element of this equation is the culture. Spaniards are known to be a very friendly and relaxed people (see my other article about it). Because of that, they don’t put as much emphasis on work or career that Americans or Germans do. The Spaniards simply enjoy their lives to the fullest. Not that there’s anything wrong with that.

The second element is the aftermath of Franco’s regime. For generations, who are still very much alive and can remember, Spain wasn’t allowed any semblance of freedom. Franco told everyone what to do, how to do it, when and where to do it, etc. When the country became a democracy in 1975, the pendulum swung the other way completely. Now, there’s a underlying feeling of political correctness in the air.

Sleeping in Class is the Least of the Issues...
Sleeping in Class is the Least of the Issues…

Add these two parts together and what do you get? One of those firecrackers that doesn’t go off. Students in Spain lack any type of motivation to learn. It’s a struggle to get even the brightest of minds to complete his homework or ask a question in class. They rush through their assignments so that they can play smartphone games, or join their friends on the soccer pitch (don’t get me started on Europeans’ obsession with soccer).

So what came first? The proverbial chicken or the egg?

The students seem to want to do only the bare minimum of work to get through the class. There isn’t any inherit curiosity about their world. There isn’t any value for education or where a good one will take them in the future. Most importantly is something I’ve noticed in all my travels. The United States gets a bad reputation all over the world. We aren’t loved, and I’m not sure we ever were. When I first began teaching, it was my goal to escape my home country.

Maybe it does have something to do with the Profit Motive (as my father says)...
Maybe there’s something to be said for the Profit Motive (as my father says)…

Four years later, I have now found the single greatest thing that makes America and Americans great. Critical thinking. No nation on the globe teaches their students to be critical thinkers like the US does. Sure, I’m speaking in broad generic strokes and there may be elements of it in other countries (I’m sure the U.K. and Germany do a pretty damn good job too). But overall, from Turkiye and Spain to China and South Korea, there is no emphasis placed on a learner’s ability to plan ahead. There’s just not enough problem solving going on.

In Spain specifically, the reason goes again back to their government. Most students want to scrape by because when they graduate, they want to get a civil service job. There are 46 million people living in Spain and 3 million federal civil service positions including administrators, police, healthcare, and even street sweepers to name a few. There are even more per capita region by region.

With a gradually decreasing unemployment rate (from 23%-20% in just one year), and so many civil service positions available for many who do not have an education, students in Spain just don’t have the motivation to apply themselves. And the few that do, haven’t developed the necessary critical thinking skills to succeed (they’re too content to play their video games and text with their friends all the time – check out this article from the Guardian).

From early primary school, children aren’t taught to behave properly in public. I have seen it in my school and in other schools. From the age of 3+, they run around like wild animals, screaming and fighting, and doing God knows what else. It is this awful behavior (which remains uncorrected by both parents and teachers) that continues through secondary school. Unlike in Turkiye, Spanish students do not get 10 minute breaks between classes, but classes run together as the schedule is written, making the transition between lessons confusing.

Additionally, the long lunch break affects learning as well. Students are in school between 8:30 and 11:15. Then they get a 30 minute recess. From 11:45 to 1:20, they are in classes again, but the two hour lunch break follows and the next class doesn’t begin until 3:10. This concept is bad enough for teenagers, but the schools subject primary school and even kindergarten students to it as well. Can you imagine a classroom of 25 four-year-olds stuck in school from 8:30 to 4:50? It’s baffling.

It's Amazing what Parents Can Do!
It’s Amazing what Parents Can Do!

To sum up, four countries with four distinct educational systems. The only real insight I’ve gathered is that parental involvement is key. Parents need to show their children that they not only care about them, but they care about their education. Students need to build selfrespect, because if they can’t respect themselves, they’re certainly not going to respect anyone (or anything) else. After all, education is the silver bullet.

We don’t need little changes, we need gigantic, monumental changes. Schools should be palaces. Competition for the best teachers should be fierce. Teachers should be making six figure salaries. Schools should be incredibly expensive for government and absolutely free to the citizens.

Let’s figure out how to do it. Thanks, Sam Seaborn.

Hasta La Promixa…

-Justin

Nobody Expects the Spanish Inquisition!

Officially known as the Tribunal of the Holy Office of the Inquisition, the Spanish Inquisition was established to maintain Catholic orthodoxy in rural regions throughout Spain. In the latter half of 1500s, it came to the attention of the church and Queen Isabella I that some of their citizens were practicing unconventional religious ceremonies, rituals, and customs. In a massive effort to stamp this “witchcraft” out, cardinals and bishops were dispatched to the farthest reaches and the most rural villages to exterminate those ideas and people. The region of Navarre was a hotbed of this kind of activity.

A Goat Skull - a symbol of Fertility (not the Devil)...
A Goat Skull – a symbol of Fertility (not the Devil)…

You may ask, what exactly is witchcraft? Well, I’d like to begin by telling you what it isn’t. Nowadays, people think of witches as they have been depicted in popular culture films, television, cartoons, and literature. In The Wizard of Oz, the wicked witch of the west has green skin and wears a pointy black hat while she flies around on her broomstick. More recently, the wizarding world of Harry Potter depicts witches and wizards wearing long flowing robes (also flying around on broomsticks), making potions in cauldrons, and playing with magical creatures such as unicorns, hippogriffs, and dragons. In reality, witches were nothing of the sort.

Prior to modern medicine and science, little was known about common ailments of the human body. The genome hadn’t been mapped and people didn’t even know what blood cells were. A group of people, typically rural country folk, used home remedies to cure these afflictions. Ever heard of homeopathy? They had a vast knowledge of plant life because they were farmers and the daughters and wives of farmers. They understood certain plants had healing properties and would use them to create salves and drinks that helped with a variety of symptoms including headaches, stomach aches, and skin disorders. These salves and drinks worked on both animals and humans.

One of the Torture Towers of the Inquisition, where Women were Held and put to the Question
One of the Torture Towers of the Inquisition, where Women were Held and put to the Question

Unfortunately, there were many who didn’t understand these natural methods of healing. Those who didn’t get it grew scared and believed these women (and some men) to be worshiping the devil. Their weird rituals and symbols were distinctly nonChristian and therefore considered evil. Something had to be done about them and their primitive beliefs. In Basque (the oldest language in Europe), the word for witch is sorgin (the origin of the word is sortze: to be born, and egin: to do – or she who makes born, ie a midwife).

Midwives were the precursors to modern day doctors and they used the resources at their disposal to help new mothers bring their children into the world. They were revered themselves, as they should have been for being the bearers of new life. But what they themselves worshiped was the natural order of the world (not what they felt was just some guy on a cross who had been dead for six hundred years).

These same sorginak (pl.) closely resembled people who are today known as Wiccans. They are a group of people who worship Mother Earth and love all things natural. They pay attention to the stars and positions of the planets and they pay homage to the cycle of birth, life, and death that can be found in all walks of nature from plants to animals to humans ourselves. But four centuries ago, the Holy Catholic Church didn’t see it this way. These women weren’t going to church and they weren’t practicing Christianity. You couldn’t find crosses or palm branches in their homes. And since they were different, they were deemed bad.

Village where "Witches" were Burned at the Stake for non-Christian Beliefs...
Village where “Witches” were Burned at the Stake for non-Christian Beliefs…

Last weekend, we took a trip to the small village of Zugarramurdi, which was a hotbed of witchcraft and Inquisitorial punishments. The locals performed orgiastic rituals and festivals in nearby caves that celebrated life and the seasons. They had secret knowledge of how medicinal herbs could heal the body. And for this, they were hunted down and murdered, burned at the stake. Anybody could be accused of witchcraft and that threat would have been taken very seriously.

The equivalent nowadays to the rampant fear that accompanied the Inquisition is terrorism (but the witches were healers, not harmers). Muslims the world over are being persecuted for their beliefs, and only a small minority are doing anything wrong. In Europe during the 17th century, people who believed anything different from what the Holy Church deemed appropriate were destroyed. The goat, their symbol of fertility was rebranded by the church into an image of the devil and demonic worship. Imagine how they must have felt though? If you had stumbled into a Catholic Mass for the first time, never having heard of Christianity before, the rituals would freak you out too.

Zugarramurdi Caves, where Life was Celebrated
Zugarramurdi Caves, where Life was Celebrated

What is the biggest shame is that the fear that took control so many years ago can still be found today. People are scared of anything different from what they know. Any cultural people, customs, language, food, style of dress… is looked down upon by those outside, who don’t understand its importance. Can’t we please learn from the mistakes of our ancestors? Stop the witch hunts. Stop the killing. And enjoy the video below.

Hasta La Promixa…

-Justin

Monty Python’s Flying Circus

The Importance of Being Ernest

Ernie and Me
Ernie and Me

One of the main reasons I initially decided to leave the safety of my home country and move out abroad, teaching English as a second language (ESL) to foreigners overseas was for a mental focus that comes with only working one full-time job instead of three or four part-time jobs. I have been blessed since leaving to have completed two novels and started work on two more in addition to a handful of short stories and articles. Writing has become an avenue of creativity and solace for me.

So when I moved to Pamplona, Spain and realized that one of the all-time greats lived, and wrote, here, I was flabbergasted. I was beside myself with giddy joy. Here I was, just doing my own thing, and I followed in the footsteps of arguably one of the greatest prose writers of all time: Ernest Hemingway. I was in good company.

Hemingway and the Bullfighter
Hemingway and the Bullfighter

Hemingway lived a life of adventure. He was a resident of not only Pamplona, but of Paris as well (and eventually Key West, the southernmost point in the contiguous United States). He spent a great deal of time hanging out with people, smoking and drinking and just soaking up life (Thoreau would have been proud). Having expatriated when he did, he became a member of the Lost Generation in the 1920s, a term that he coined, referring to artists who came of age during World War I (and included F. Scott Fitzgerald, John Steinbeck, T.S. Eliot, Franz Kafka, Aldous Huxley, Isadora Duncan, George Gershwin, and Aaron Copland).

Like these great names, I have embarked upon my own adventure to see the world, meet interesting people, and witness exotic cultural traditions, while at the same time learning and polishing my craft as a writer. In addition to my fiction, I have also had articles published in newspapers and magazines about my experiences living abroad. Look for my work in the Courier Post, the South Jersey Times, and Global Living magazine (to name a few).

Cafe Iruna - and their memorialized Hemingway in Bronze
Cafe Iruna – the first building in Pamplona to be outfitted with electricity, and their memorialized Hemingway in Bronze

And like me, Hemingway thoroughly enjoyed his time in Europe. In 1921, he was hired by a Canadian newspaper as their foreign correspondent and left immediately for Paris. It is said that he wanted a life in Europe because of the comforts such a life provided (at the time the exchange rate was profitable for Americans overseas). He first visited Pamplona for the San Fermin festival, aka the Running of the Bulls in 1923. He and his family returned for the next three consecutive years, Ernest becoming obsessed with bullfighting and bullfighters.

The Working Title was Fiesta (the Spanish word for "party")
The Working Title was Fiesta (the Spanish word for “party”)

It was during this period of the mid-1920s that he wrote what is his greatest work of fiction: The Sun Also Rises. It’s the story of a group of expats who go to San Fermin for the festivities. They also sit around in many cafes drinking wine, something we have done quite a bit since adopting the European lifestyle. Hemingway drew on his personal experiences while visiting the festival and wrote aspects of his friends into the characters: two things necessary for good fiction. The details he paints jump off the page and make the readers feel like they’re right there with him.

I’ve spent some time writing in the bar/cafe where Hemingway relaxed. It’s called Cafe Iruna, and yes I have sipped both wine and coffee whilst sitting with my laptop. I can only hope that someday, my writing is remembered half as much as Ernest’s. That’s what’s important to me. But my adventure, getting there, is a lot of the fun too.

Hasta La Proxima…

-Justin